The Skincare Acid Bible
The word acid can be off putting, especially when it comes to the face. Yet acids need no chemistry degree to use. When used appropriately acids can work wonders for the skin. Benefits include fighting acne, staging-off wrinkles, ridding milia, evening skin tone, fading dark spots and scars. With so many products on the market, knowing what to use and when can feel overwhelming. Acids can come with serious side effects. Before you start using acids, add a quality sunscreen into your regimen. Get into the habit of using it daily, no matter what.
Acids are often referred to as chemical exfoliants. This is because acids help shed dead skin cells and increase cellular turnover. This natural cycle may get interrupted due to environmental, lifestyle, or dietary factors. There are two types of exfoliation-chemical, utilizing acids or physical- utilizing scrubs. You may have heard one is better than the other but both have their pros and cons in personal care.
Acids are sold in different concentrations. The lesser concentrations are available for sale over-the counter. Higher concentrations are called chemical peels. These should be done under the guidance of a dermatologist or esthetician. Chemical peels break the bonds that hold the skin cells together. Thus, can result in some redness or peeling. All side effects should be discussed before receiving treatment. Chemical peels cannot be practiced daily, unlike their lesser concentrated counter parts-acids.
When using acids in your skincare routine remember that one acid can offer many benefits. If you’re using multiple acids, educate yourself on what can and can’t be mixed together. Most products will have the active acid listed as a selling point. Always check the ingredient list to make sure the acid is the active ingredient. You’ll know if it’s at the top of the ingredient list. Since ingredient lists are organized by weight, it’s unfortunately very common to see advertised acids at the end of the list.
There are three main categories when working with acids at home. These are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA), and Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA).
AHAs
Alpha hydroxy acids are plant derived exfoliators that when used on a regular basis can help blemish prone skin. AHAs are also beneficial when working on wrinkles, uneven skin texture and pigmentation. These acids may cause a slight tingling sensation when you apply them as they disintegrate dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. AHAs are ideal for those focused on anti-aging.
BHAs
Beta Hydroxy acids are oil soluble acids that make them ideal for oily skin. BHAs have anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that allows them to sink in underneath the skin’s oil and work to clear spots and heal inflammation. Utilizing a leave-on BHA treatment can shed dull cells and while keeping the natural microbiome intact.
PHAs
Polyhydroxy acids are molecularly larger in size than their counterpart, AHAs. Due to their size, PHAs are unable to sink into the skin as deeply. PHAs work exclusively on the outer layer of the epidermis making this an ideal acid for sensitive skin. PHAs ensure exfoliation and skin renewal without irritation.
Utilizing acids in skincare can be a game changer. When adding in acids to your routine, start slow. Begin with a lower concentration and use once a day 2-3xs a week. Skin can be under and over exfoliated causing irreparable damage.Always follow with a quality moisturizer. Acids have a myriad of benefits and might be what you’re missing in your skincare routine. Use caution to get the most out of your new-found holy grail.
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